Editor’s note: Lucky Peach was a magical food magazine that existed from 2011 to 2017. It was beloved by readers, regarded as a destination publication for writers, and won a slew of James Beard Awards. After its untimely demise, the website—and all the stories it ever published—disappeared into the digital ether. In the spirit of resurrecting the dead (and because the copyright reverts to the author), The Takeout will be republishing stories from Lucky Peach’s archives—for posterity. I originally wrote this profile of Chinese celebrity chef Martin Yan for the fall 2012 issue. To hang out with Martin Yan is to witness a stage spectacular—a circus of dangerous feats with sharp implements and flying animal parts, all with an undertone of evangelism. Chinese cooking is the message. Opening your mind is the way. He has but one wish: Turn agnostics into believers, imbuing them with the conviction that if some guy named Yan can cook Chinese food, then yes, so can they. On a Saturday afternoon in August, in the lower level of Macy’s in downtown San Francisco, a sizable sample of Yan’s legion of fans squeezed into a cramped seating area to see him perform his greatest hits. Yan… Read full this story
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