When Mad Men began, in 2007, many men – myself included – were wearing the same scoop-necked, vintage band T-shirts, too-skinny jeans and winklepickers we had started the millennium in. It was a time when Hedi Slimane’s pipe-cleaner menswear silhouette was still worth skipping lunch for, when Peter Doherty and his band of rakes were roaming the back alleys of Camden, inhaling the last vapours of indie rock credibility. Then Don Draper waltzed in, with his grey suits, heavily pomaded, side-parted hair, billowy white shirts and perfectly neat pocket square. He looked like your dad, but sharper: like James Stewart in Rear Window, or Steve McQueen in the original Thomas Crown Affair. His scurrilous behaviour was hidden by his perfectly groomed exterior, and he oozed timeless style. From silvery Prince of Wales check suits to high-collar brown trenches, to perfectly narrow ties, to the fact that he wore PJs to bed, the 60s details were faultless – thanks mainly to the obsessive eye of show creator Matthew Weiner. For fashion writers, Draper became a totem of a new era of formality in menswear. Designers caught the 60s bug, with the show inspiring collections from the likes of Brooks Brothers and… Read full this story
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